![]() ![]() It would also allow them to easily make their way toward the pond. It can make visitors refocus their attention as they would be more likely to gaze at wherever the path leads. CC BY-SA 2.0Ī minimally designed pathway can definitely make a small pond stand out. Silicone, however, is waterproof once cured.Small Pond Designs with Dedicated Pathways 1) quiddle. If you see improvement by using the H2O2, keep hitting the stain with that first as it's harmless to the pond water.ītw, the waterfall foam is not waterproof and is not intended to seal anything it's used to 'direct' water flow. The acid is used to clean mortar off brick. If you're thrifty with it, shouldn't do any harm. Some muriatic acid will but you'll have to monitor the effects on the pond water as you'll no doubt get some in the water which might affect your pH. I'm not sure the H2O2 will get any deep set stain out but it'll kill the growing algae. Whatever doesn't come off can be scrubbed with a wire brush. ![]() The darkness is algae and you can (with the falls off) spray it down with hydrogen peroxide, wait 30 minutes, and hose it down. Either way, the water should now hit the edge and while most goes over and down, any residual leakage down should drip off this new edge. Or, you can get some aluminum drip edge like they use for roofs and silicone that to the top edge of your weir. You can try taking a stainless angle and siliconing it to the front face of the weir, making sure it extends down past the face, giving you the drip edge I'm talking aboout. This will make the water drip off that edge and not run back toward the wall.įor the concrete weir you need to create a similar 'lip'. I'd first try taking some silicone caulk (pure, not some percentage) and with the falls off, clean the stainless with a bit of sandpaper (on the bottom of the weir edge) and apply a bead all the way across, sometihing in the 1/4" avenue. Now, my first thought is you don't have a 'lip' on the stainless steel weir and I can easily see why the concrete one is wet. View attachment 139632 View attachment 139633 View attachment 139634 View attachment 139635 View attachment 139636įirst off, wonderful pictures seldom have I seen a poster with a problem give such well done visual data! I’m learning so much from this forum! I’m adding plants and studying up on improving my bog. The pond gets lots of water from the roof when it rains, so I had anticipated this. Is this normal? I have a 2,000 gph pump with approximately 170 square feet of surface area. It’s a little more in hot weather and a little less when it’s cold, but necessary year round to keep the pump under water. I’m running a hose full tilt for about seven minutes a day to keep the pond topped up, unless It rains. I was thinking about getting foam sealant, turning off the pump, waiting for the trouble spots to dry out some, and applying pond-sealant foam. The person who built the pond tried everything he could think of to fix this, but maybe more experienced Garden Pond Forum members can suggest solutions, or tell me to focus on the lotus and forget the leaks. ![]() My plan here is to face the vertical part of the fall with tile that extend a half-inch below the concrete, to stop the wicking. The upper, all-concrete fall has a problem with water wicking back under the fall, dripping on the wall, and then running behind the liner into the ground. I think water is leaking, running down the walls, and going behind the liners into the ground. The edges of the falls next to the concrete feel a little wet. The concrete stays dark right under the falls, some more than others. I have lined, concrete ponds with stainless-steel and stone waterfalls. ![]()
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